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Propagation Methods for Haworthia |
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2b - from seed: |
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Hints and Tips for Sowing Haworthia seed with a First, Hot Soak. |
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| This method has been discussed in early Haworthiad journals – it’s a hypothesis (unproven theory) only, - but it often works well. If you have difficulties germinating haworthia seed or if you feel your results could be better, why not try it? You have nothing to lose. | |||
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Sow the seeds whenever you have temperatures above 50°F (10°C) and below 80°F (27°C) for at least part of each 24 hours – as you also would for conophytum. High summer temperatures of 80°F (27°C) or more throughout the night as well as the day can prevent germination occurring in some species until temperatures reduce to around 70°F (21°C) for at least part of each 24 hours. |
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| 2 | Use a small pot and compost containing at least some additional peat – the peat is believed to release ethane gas on soaking with very hot water. It is believed the release of this gas may help to break down any germination inhibitor factor present in the seed coat. | ||
| 3 | Sow the seeds on the surface of the compost – do not cover them with compost. The presence of low light levels does also seem to be important in order to obtain larger quantities to germinate – so don’t put them in a dark cupboard. | ||
| 4 | Place the seed pot in a basin and add boiling water to the basin – NOT over the seed. | ||
| 5 | Wait until the surface of the compost just glistens with the water soaking upwards from within the soil. | ||
| 6 | Top up the hot water as necessary – then carefully lift the pot out of the hot water and set it aside to drain. The very hot water will also semi-sterilise the soil, reducing the risk of moss, insects etc. Be very careful not to scald your fingers – perhaps use strong tweezers or forceps instead of placing your fingers near the hot water. | ||
| 7 | Mist spray, preferably
using *Cheshunt Compound or an equivalent fungicide of your own choice, over
the surface of the compost to ensure all the seeds are thoroughly wetted. *[83% w/w ammonium carbonate, 15% copper carbonate] |
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| 8 | Cover the drained pots with a seed tray lid, glass, polythene bag etc. in order to maintain high humidity. | ||
| 9 | And wait. In around two weeks germination can begin - with small, white shoots. A few species can begin to germinate after only two days but others can be stubborn and may take up to two months or more - so do not despair and throw them away too soon! | ||
| 10 | Lightly spray, including your chosen fungicide, over the young shoots from time to time in order to keep the compost moist and to reduce the risk of botrytis setting in. | ||
| 11 | As soon as you feel the majority of the seeds have germinated begin to raise the cover or open the bag to allow drier air in to the seedlings so that they harden-off as soon as possible. This will also reduce the risk of botrytis taking hold. | ||
| 12 | Keep the seedlings relatively warm (± 50°F (10°C) minimum), so that you can keep them watered and growing well for their first year or so. A kitchen window-sill is an ideal place to start hardening them off. | ||
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I did comparison sowings some years back - it did no harm and some were 100% better, so I now sow all these succulents this way - do try it! |
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