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Propagation Methods for Haworthia |
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3 - from leaves: |
| Propagation | ||
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In previous years I've had poor results from leaf propagation which I now believe were due to potting-up the leaves too soon. These days I place the freshly detached leaves into an empty pot lined with absorbent tissue to absorb any moisture from the wounds. Then place the pot of leaves in semi-shade and leave them to ponder for a while. Checking them from time to time will reveal when small root nodules begin to form along the base - it could be weeks or months.Sometimes small, green leaf-shoots will begin first but, either way, this is the time I choose to place the base of the leaves, shallowly, into either normal compost or that with additional drainage added. Clay granules or Akadama bonsai potting soil either on their own or mixed with normal compost would be my first choice but they're not always available. |
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| Click on any picture to see an enlargement | |
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CC 1088 H. magnifica v. splendens - after the removal of the leaves shown below. See the section on offsets for more details on the treatment of the parent head. |
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CC 1088 H. magnifica v. splendens - showing most of the leaves removed on 17/03/2003 for propagation and photographed on 17/10/2003. These have now been planted. |
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Leaves from three different species
after being left lying in a tray for various lengths of time. Some will produce roots or offsets much more readily than others. The leaf on the left is from H. bayeri and
took many months to get to this stage. |
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CC 1904 H. koelmaniorum - leaf propagation.
- NEW Slow - but much faster than from seed for these. |
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CC 3843 H. truncata - slowly, slowly. - NEW |
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CC 2007 H. magnifica v. atrofusca
Offsets forming from both the front and back surfaces of the leaves. |
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CC 338 H. sordida The resulting offsets that can be obtained from just one leaf! |
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| All photographs are copyright. | |
| Propagation | ||
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